Volkswagen Electrical Wiring Diagrams. EWD
Here you can find and download color wiring diagrams, fuse and relay diagrams, wiring and engine connection diagrams for all models of Volkswagen Amarok, Arteon, Atlas, Cross, Sport, Beetle, Bora, Caddy, Golf, Polo, Eos, ID.3/4, Jetta, Lavida, Multivan, Passat, Passat CC, Phaeton, Scirocco, Sharan, Taos, Teramont, Tiguan, Touareg, Touran, Transporter, T-Roc, T-Cross,
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How to choose a car battery
The battery is an important part of any car. It provides energy to start the internal combustion engine and serves as a source of current during stops. We tell you how to choose a car battery in order to confidently start the car in both winter frosts and summer heat.
A sign of a failed battery is low voltage and low current. Most often, this results in the slow operation of the starter - the crankshaft barely scrolls, a characteristic howl comes from under the hood. The absence of a charge can also be recognized by the dim illumination of the instruments in the cabin. In the worst case, when the key is turned, nothing happens - the starter does not start the engine, the bulbs do not turn on at all.
But do not rush to immediately buy a battery for a car. It is possible that it is in excellent condition. A low charge can be due to damage to the generator, current leakage to the case, short circuits, and other problems.
Ideally, before purchasing a new battery, you need to invest the battery of the most and most significant part of the car. A live battery must draw 1/10 of its capacity and supply at least 75% of the residual inrush current. These indicators can be associated with a multimeter or charger with diagnostic functions. But it is better to explore the special stands that large service stations have.
However, sometimes you can check the condition of the battery without a visit to a service center. The sure signs of a breakdown are a damaged body, an unpleasant odor, cloudy streaks, swelling, and strong heat when the car is running. If there are no external signs, try to charge the battery, leave it for a day, and only then put it in the car. If the charge is still not enough, most likely you will have to buy a new battery.
What are batteries?
Let's start with the fact that in cars with internal combustion engines, lead-acid batteries are still used with an optimal balance of price and traction. Experiments with nickel-cadmium and lithium-ion batteries are already underway, but so far it has been limited to expensive hybrid cars.
And yet, lead-acid batteries are manufactured using different technologies:
- Low-antimony batteries are already considered a relic of the past. They are presented only in the budget segment. Such batteries are quickly discharged in the absence of load, the electrolyte gradually evaporates, and the plates crumble in 2-3 years. You have to carefully monitor the level of charge and regularly add liquid.
- In hybrid models (Ca +), one plate is made of an alloy of lead with antimony, and the second with calcium. Most often, such batteries are chosen for budget cars. The service life is up to 3-4 years, the starting current is more stable, the discharge rate is lower when the engine is off. But if you leave the car in the garage for 2-3 months, the battery will definitely have to be charged from the outlet.
- Fully calcium batteries (Ca-Ca) are considered the "golden mean" for budget and middle class cars. They have a minimum rate of self-discharge and electrolyte evaporation, therefore, with frequent use of the car, you can not take the charger at all. But the liquid will have to be topped up at least once every 2 years with a total service life of 4 to 7 years.
- Enhanced liquid electrolyte batteries (EFB) are suitable for cars of any class - up to premium sedans with multi-liter engines and powerful trucks. Their plates are braided with polyester nets, which help the lead-calcium alloy retain its properties longer. Such batteries behave well with frequent discharges, strong temperature changes and unstable voltage. On average, they serve about 5-8 years.
- Adsorbed electrolyte (AGM) batteries are designed for powerful vehicles with increased energy consumption. They are used in cars with regenerative braking and start-stop systems, as well as in "mild hybrids" with motor starters. If in other batteries the electrolyte splashes freely between the plates, then here sponges made of fiberglass meshes are impregnated with it. This technology reduces the rate of evaporation and self-discharge by 99%, eliminates the leakage of liquid when tilted and prevents damage to the plates during deep discharge. AGM batteries last 5 to 10 years, withstand accelerated charging, and maintain high starting current at low temperatures.
Contrary to popular belief, gel batteries are not used in passenger cars. If the store tells you about the gel battery, it's AGM technology.
How to choose the right battery?
The best way is to come to the store with an old battery. If it has served you faithfully for a long time - take the same model. If there were problems, find another with similar characteristics.
You can pick up a battery for a car remotely - if you prefer to place an order online or do not want to remove a heavy battery. In this case, you need to write out in advance all the necessary characteristics from the operating instructions for the machine or from the sticker of the old battery. The checklist looks like this:
- Technology. It is best to consult the manufacturer's recommendations. If the instructions say Ca-Ca, EFB or AGM, choose just such a battery. You can buy a more modern and expensive battery. On the contrary, it is impossible - there is a high probability of problems with the starter, generator and electronics.
- Capacity. Small deviations from the recommended figure are allowed - 20% plus and 10% minus. If the factory battery says 55 Ah, you can look for models with a capacity of 50 to 66 Ah. Less - you risk being left without a charge, more - overheating the starter in case of problems with the motor.
- starting current. In order for the starter to work in normal mode, this figure must be no less than that of the car's factory battery. More is better. So you protect yourself from starting problems during unexpected frosts, with thickened oil, reduced compression in the cylinders or worn candles. If the starting current of the old battery is 500 A, models of the same capacity with a current of 500-900 A will suit you.
- Dimensions. Although manufacturers are trying to come to a common standard, batteries still differ in size. Measure the old battery - differences of a few millimeters in width and length are allowed. If the new battery turns out to be larger, it will not fit into the seat, if it is smaller, it will dangle and jump. Higher - can come into contact with the metal of the hood and short out.
- Polarity. Straight line - plus on the left, minus on the right. Reverse - right plus, left minus. Theoretically, these models are interchangeable - you can just take longer wires and connect them the other way around. But whether they will fit in a cramped engine compartment is a difficult question.
- Frame. For European models, the terminals are recessed deep, for Asian ones, they stick out from above. As with the polarity of a car battery, you can come up with adapters and other workarounds, but this will interfere with the design of the car.
- Terminal type. There are two popular standards for passenger cars. European manufacturers use thick T1 clips - 19.5 mm on the plus, 17.8 on the minus. Asian - thin terminals T3, 12.7 mm on the plus, 11.1 on the minus.
- Fastening. There are two popular ways of fixing - a clip from below or a plate from above. In the first case, a special ledge is needed, and in the second, a smooth, even cover. There are also universal batteries to which both methods are applicable.
- Weight. The indicator is very important, and not only because of the ease of transportation. It indirectly evaluates the quality. For every 10 A * h of capacity, there should be from 2.4 to 3 kg of mass. That is, a 60 Ah battery will weigh 14–18 kg. If the battery is lighter, it is unlikely that it will meet the declared characteristics.
- Reserve capacity. Shows how long the car can move when the generator breaks down. Normal indicators are from 60 to 180 minutes.
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